Bad head does not give rest to legs
The acquaintances, having heard where we are going, only shrugged their shoulders in bewilderment: what a whim — to go beyond 350 km, and even where - to the sands ?! People come to the Emirates for the warm sea, and we were drawn to the exotic - away from civilization, to the Bedouins. The official website of the hotel confirmed our fears: not only did we have to travel deep into one of the harshest deserts on the planet - Rub El Khali, to the unfamiliar area of Liva, this place was also called the "empty side" - Empty Quarter. Neither give nor take, we will seek a mirage in the desert.
Whoever gets up early, God gives him
Armed with a map printed on the site and an electronic navigator, we hit the road in the early morning. In the trunk there is only water on the road, photo equipment and bathing accessories. What else do you need to stay at a five-star hotel? The beginning of the path, clear even to us, two blondes - to go towards the airport of the capital's emirate of Abu Dhabi. Encouraging each other with jokes, we reach a place where it is time to switch to orientation on the ground. The map leads from the main highway E 11 towards Liva, onto the road E 65. Here, puzzles and charades begin under the name "get out of the maze of bypass reconstructed roads". I must say that in these interchanges, most of which are not even equipped with guide plates, we lost a lot of time. The navigator was also bewildered and mournfully repeated: "Turn around, wherever possible. Turn around, wherever possible!" However, we only laughed at the shortcomings of modern technology and stubbornly advanced in this direction. Textual comments detailed below the map helped a lot. They brought us to the gas station, from which it was already close at hand to the cherished goal.
Fata Morgana
Sand dunes with giant walls rise along a narrow, unlit road. Orange sand creeps along the asphalt, threatening to hide it completely from rare travelers. The last spurt, we only have to overcome 12 km! Directly along the course, an entrance gate appeared with clay jugs of human height on both sides. We arrived? - Having passed through wicker wings, again we see the endless road leading away into the distance. What is it, it was a mirage?
We again go through empty terrain. The name fully justifies itself, around not a single building, not a single living soul. And again, lies ahead? “We see another gate, this time with stone pillars.” Just in case, we do not express violent delight. And we are right, it was a fiction again. Behind the gates is emptiness. But the premonition suggests that the third time, as it should be in all tales, will be final. Indeed, the third gate justifies our hopes, behind them it grows like a city of sand - with towers, stairways, street labyrinths and fallage irrigation channels - the Qasr Al Sarab hotel.
Chambers worthy of kings
It was as if they were waiting specially for our appearance, unloading small luggage from the car and taking them to the hall of the main building, where, treating them with juices from all kinds of exotic fruits, they made out a “residence permit” and acquainted with the program of excursions and entertainment. The Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort and Spa, owned by the Anantara hotel chain, is located on the beautiful sandy territory of Liva. It has 140 rooms in 10 low freestanding buildings of the main hotel building; ten villas, separately located at a distance and called the "Royal Pavilions", as well as 42 villas, three rows located in the natural landscape of the desert, with one, two or three bedrooms. All apartments are furnished with cozy dark wood furniture, decorated with handmade carpets and household items of the past era. Each room is equipped with every comfort, including satellite TV, a DVD player, high-speed internet, a minibar and tea and coffee making facilities.
Before the events we had chosen, there was still enough time, therefore, we went to settle in the villa provided to us in a street named Al Khail. Muffled interior tones, massive upholstered furniture, a full-length mirror, ottomans, pillows, chaise longues, floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows, the smooth surface of the private pool flickering with sun glare - all combined sensual oriental harmony and disposed to complete bliss and a restful rest . “Fruits, sun and water are our best friends!” We decided unanimously and blissfully plunged into the refreshing moisture. Fatigue from a recent long-distance move, as a hand took off. Water procedures alternated with photo shoots of the surrounding species that opened from the lawns of our villa.
Here comes the caravan on quicksand
The sun was tilting towards the horizon, and with it came the time of our journey on the "ships of the desert." An international group of future camel riders was seated in SUVs and taken to a Bedouin camp. The “Camel Park”, surrounded by a palisade of palm branches, is laid out not far from the hotel complex, but at a distance sufficient so that the smells of wildlife do not disturb the sensitive smell of urban residents who came to rest. Here, near the camp, an old village, an open-air museum, stretched out its tents, where you can personally learn about all the details of the harsh life of courageous inhabitants of the desert. A caravan of camels while humbly resting in the warm sand. For some reason, all of the local camels turned out to be males, although camels, they say, are more affectionate and complaisant.
Dromedaries are in a bunch, like climbers, so that the caravan goes on the trail, and does not disperse in different directions. The saddles are designed for two riders, but the group is distributed in such a way that one rider per young, not quite stronger and less experienced camel. Landing begins. Perhaps this is the funniest sight that we have ever seen: camels, trumpeted with each other, rise from their knees. First, the croup quickly takes off, causing the passenger to roll sharply downward, then the front legs of the camel are straightened, and the rider regains equilibrium in the landing. Not all riders have a reaction and coordination of movements synchronous with a camel, which causes a noisy revival and laughter, both among tourists and among the Bedouins. Finally, everyone is accommodated, and the caravan sets off. Such huge dunes, as in these places, we have never seen.
Interestingly, here, too, fearless heads drive off-road vehicles? The steep slopes, suddenly ending in huge funnels, endless slip faces, dotted with numerous traces of invisible living creatures. The desert is animated, it breathes and changes with each breath of the wind, drawing intricate patterns in colors from pale yellow to deep brown. Measuring rocking during the movement of “desert ships” causes a desire to drag out some song of the desert nomads. Requests to fulfill something like that, addressed to our caravan bash, were unsuccessful. Therefore, we cope on our own, on the principle of "what I see, then I sing." And the caravan goes on the sands further and further ...
Vanity is vanity, and all is vanity
It turns out that the crossing of the dune had its own goal. On the horizon, in a hollow, among high sand hills, red cushions stood out as a bright spot. Dismounting, we wandered into the valley, leaving the camels to rest. Soft cushions had one big advantage - they didn’t swing on them! The guide accompanying the group handed out water and juices to everyone and said that now you can prepare cameras and wait for the sun to set. She froze her life, I wanted to speak in an undertone, so as not to disturb the soundlessness of the desert. Such silence that presses on the ears. Nothing disturbs, and even a rare bird flies so far into the sands. At such a moment of complete unity with nature, I want to forget about all my worries and shaved affairs and completely immerse ourselves in the world around you. Only heaven, desert and you. And nothing else. For a few moments the sun set behind a dune, leaving the world without light.
Charges on the way back were fast, it was necessary to get to jeeps to complete darkness. The group of travelers, who felt a completely different rhythm of life on themselves, was so quiet and renounced from everything earthly that the caravaners decided to raise our morale with the wonders of camel riding. They loudly shouted something, cheering on the caravan, stood with their arms outstretched, legs on the saddle and performed all kinds of acrobatic stunts, asking if there were anyone who wanted to repeat them for 100 dirhams from their prize pool. No one was found. Maybe the prize fund was worth increasing?
Suddenly there came complete and impenetrable darkness. And only the headlights of the cars shone on us in the night. Already sitting in the car, I was trying to imagine how these hardy sand dwellers managed to make transitions through the desert, lasting weeks, or even months? At that time, when I had after an hour's walk, my legs did not want to become parallel. The final chord of a beautiful day was dinner at an Arabian restaurant, while the heady aroma of hookah on the pool terrace complemented it.
Freeze, die, Sunday
The body requires rest, as well as the soul. It is impossible to visit the famous resort of Anantara and not to visit its SPA. Charming sounds of music, spicy smells of oils, helpful staff. Of the many proposed procedures, I choose massage. A separate room for turning into a canvas dressing gown the color of sand (everything here corresponds to the chosen topic), and a gong to notify a friendly girl with the spring name May that I am ready to talk. In a spacious room with a panoramic view of the majestic desert, I sit down on a bench, and May washes my feet in a copper tub, soaking them with milk oil and rose water. Massage tones all the muscles of my body, inspiring me to new feats of arms. Ice tea with floral, mint and pepper additives stimulates the activation of the life process. Here you will be allowed to completely relax, perhaps even fall asleep, and then they will be resurrected by skillful hands of professional masseurs.
What remains behind the scenes
The second half of the day we spent in a large free-form pool located at the foot of the main hotel complex. I must say that this was already the eve of the weekend, and therefore, by this time, guests began to actively gather in the resort area. Groups of friends, couples, companies with children - all, first of all, went to freshen up to the pool. Solitude and peace blossomed with bright and noisy colors of new arrivals. Yes, our time is up, but they have only just begun. They could frolic in the water, wander the streets of this lost city in the desert, see off the sunset and meet the dawn, shoot archery, ride camels and enjoy various dishes of Arabian cuisine.
The return trip awaited us. And fond memories of how we “tamed” the desert.
Hotel in figures and facts
Deluxe Rooms are located on the top floor of the hotel. From the windows of 42 rooms, an area of 45 sq.m. each one overlooks the desert. Each room has a shower, a large bathtub, and king-size or twin beds.
Deluxe Terrace Rooms are more spacious rooms (50 sq.m.) which are located in the main hotel building. Each of the 28 rooms has its own terrace and a double bed (King-size). All rooms overlook the desert. Each room has a shower, large bathroom.
Deluxe Garden Terrace Rooms are located on the ground floor. Each of the 70 rooms measuring 50 sq.m., has its own terrace and access to the garden. Each room is equipped with shower, large bathtub, king-size or twin beds.
Villas with 1, 2 and 3 bedrooms have a private entrance, a spacious living and dining room, a private pool, a large bathroom, a terrace:
One-Bedroom Villas are one-bedroom villas, each with a double bed (Kingsize), private pool and minibar. The area of the villa is 106 sq.m.
Two-Bedroom Villas - villas with two bedrooms, in which one bedroom has 2 single beds (Twin beds), the other has a double bed (King-size). The area of each villa is 190 sq.m. Each villa has its own pool and minibar.
Three-Bedroom Villas - villas with three bedrooms, each area - 210 sq.m. Two bedrooms have King-size beds, while the third has two twin beds, as well as a luxurious pool and minibar.
One-Bedroom Diplomatic Suites is a spacious diplomatic one-bedroom suite that is ideal for families as this room communicates with Deluxe Twin rooms. The suites are 130 square meters.
